Outing to Ennistymon.

I love Ennistymon. "Home of the cascades & traditional shop fronts." We come here when we need any manner of things. Groceries, toiletries, an post, packing supplies, a shopping fix, and crepes. 

Today we needed a sweet tooth fix to help us brave the banshee winds. We went to oh la la crepery & felt 1,000 better after the first sip of our chai & hot chocolate. Groceries & then a hunt to find ammonia. Ammonia has been hard to find and when ever people ask me why I want to use I feel bad for what I'm about to say. Mainly because I know I within seconds their eyes will glaze over and they'll have no idea what I'm saying. What? You want to do what with lichen? I'm sure this is what they're thinking. Some just skip over it all and think its something got do with my hair as soon as I say the word "dye". Why do they need  I ask every time anyway? It's ok, I love to chat with anyone. I finally find it in the hardware store. We love this store. Chalk a block full of everything basic house hold and garden item you could need. And want. The walls are piled to the ceiling with tea cups, bird seed, flower seeds, vegetable seeds, veggies steamers, muffin tins, brooms, cat food, cleaning supplies, door knobs, tools... You get the picture. But this was my favorite. I'm sure I've seen this before in our garden centers back home. But here it made an impression on me and I smiled. 

Just look at these little boxed of new fresh growth popping up tucked away in corner. I imagine there are making the bland teacups on the shell next door quite happy.

I'm not sure what happened here. My phone just jumped into my hand and made me take a picture! Jubal picked put a muffin tin and I finally found my ammonia. 

I walked down the street hoping to catch a glimps of Muffy & thought of asking everyone I saw where she might be but then I come to my scenses remembering no one would have a flipping idea who I was on about. 

This is Muffy. She roams the streets of Ennistymon and is probably the friendliest dog I have met her yet. Btw the way, Muffy is the name I gave her. She just looks like a Muffy, doesn't she?! Most dogs just keep walking by you like they didn't see or here you. I won't even mention the sheep dogs that lunge at our car as we pass by scaring the SH!T out of us because I think we've run it over. E.V.E.R.Y.T.I.M.E. but that's a story for another time. Muffy will happily approach us, wag her tag and then roll over expecting a belly rub. Meanwhile my heart is in a puddle next to her on the side walk. Then I had a thought the other day...... What if Muffy had no person? What if she had no real home to go to? What if it was super easy for us to bring a dog home to the States? Then can we keep her? Huh? Huh??!! Jubal just smiles. (Tried to find the picture where I cropped out my finger. Oh well)

No Muffy sighting today. But yesterday I swore I saw her pass by in a truck riding on the dashboard. 

Now, at 5:20 with a little less than 5 hours of day light left, we're headed out into the bogs in searcn of some magical lichen and bog water. Bog water?! What?! Yes, bog water. read somewhere recently that it has been used to get dark colors. Like black. the wind is still carrying on but the sun is out and the outside is screaming (literaly) for us to join in. I'll post my findings soon. The hunt for lichen is on. 

Eating Our Way Through Ireland

It's official. Jubal and I have been here for one month. And we have been married for one month and two days. As we've settled into our new alternate Irish reality (quite nicely, I'd say), I'd also say that soon we may not fit into our clothes. We have enjoyed with such great pleasure the Irish butter (HUGE) slabs of it over brown bread, our boiled potatoes, in the sauce pan for the green beans or the peppers and onions). We've been indulging in the cream so so happily and with giddy pleasure when served with the Bailey's cheese cake (every where we go). The warm goat cheese salads are just heaven with a side of lovely leafy greens. The Lamb chops and pork chops are succulent, simple and grounding. It reminds me why I am not (very happily) a vegetarian. Then there is the Guinness. Now I have never ever been a beer drinker or fan. I like sweet drinks (and food) and never bothered with anything bitter like beer. But Guinness.... Now, would you believe that this is my fourth trip to the Emerald Isle and the FIRST time I've ever tasted a Guinness? I know! SACRILEGIOUS!!! It is. So Amazing. Jubal's taken to getting a 1/2 pint where ever we stop. I think so he can pace himself because he'll be getting more later on anyway. Very smart. It is creamy and so smooth and just has such a wonderful taste. If it weren't for the hollowing wind outside our door at the moment, I'd be having myself one right now. But there is always tomorrow. 

This past weekend, Jubal and I took a nice trip up to Co. Mayo to Ballina. We really wanted to visit The Jackie Clarke Collection on Pearse Street which proved to be something else. We were not prepared for the type of collection or rather the manner in which it would be organized. It was state of the art and very well organized. There were hundreds of old news papers collected by Mr. Clarke pertaining to history being made in Ireland, dating back to the 1700's. Very rare books regarding Irish travel, Irish identity, Irish history, and many other things. There were touch screens in ever room that you could virtually visit the inside of these rare books and newspapers. There was a poster collection of meetings being held regarding Sinn Féin, the Land War, The Young Irelanders, and a massive book collection from Ireland's first president, Dr. Douglas Hyde which included the first Bible in the Gaelic language. My absolute favorite piece; a hand written voting tally of the Irish Free State with Michael Collins signature and a note he wrote describing his feelings of the absolute recourse that the result would bring the people of Ireland. If you are ever to find your self in Ballina, you have got to take yourself to the Jackie Clarke Collection. 

We had a wonderful two night stay at the Brigown B&B on the Quay in Ballina. Marjorie was a wonderful host and A.M.A.Z.I.N.G cook. She greeted us at the door with homemade frosted brownies (much like the ones my mother makes) that she made that day. (We each had two) and tea. Our room was lovely and cozy and we slept so well there. Our breakfast consisted of 3 courses all fresh indigents including Marjorie's homemade jams, breads and potato cakes.  The first morning we had yogurt and fruit, tea, muesli, and I had poached eggs on toast. Jubal had, Marjorie's famous potato pancakes with bacon. The second morning I skipped the cereal and had what Jubal had the morning before and he had the "omelet". Marjorie will create a wonderful omelet from what ever she's got in the press. The morning after we had returned to our cottage we were missing very much Marjorie's breakfast:( As we were leaving, she gave me a pile of her recipes and we will be making every single one. I am just kicking myself for not taking a picture of the magnificent spread she puts on in the morning. It's impeccable!  

So both mornings we were full to the brim with food that could last us all day. As we were also visiting my long time and dear friend, Cáit and her husband, also newly married, We did go out to eat for every meal!! It was heaven. We ate at The Everest Restaurant where they serve Indian. I ordered a salmon tikka masala. It was just the best thing I've ever ordered in an Indian Restaurant. The flavor was unbelievable. And just realizing right now that it is very near the River Moy which is famous for its salmon. The night before we after our dinner at Crockets and then stopped by the ultra fancy (posh) Ice House Hotel for a very late cocktail. I could not pass up the Toblerone Cocktail and it was yummy! i really must take more pictures of food! 

I loved sending my Dad this picture of the butcher shop in Ballina. Though, they all look like this more or less, to us Americans, particularly those who love meat like we do, it's just beautiful. But no one, I mean NO ONE loves meat more, I think, than my Dad. We could talk endlessly about his smoker, outside pizza oven, various cuts and rubs and sauces and temperatures and recipes. He really has instilled in me just how good meat can be. Really miss his bar-b-q ribs btw.... miss you Dad.

This here is my favorite dish so far. You can find it at The Stonecutter's Kitchen in Doolin and its warm goat cheese salad. Heeeeeeeeeeaaaaven. They also serve something similar at O'Connor's Pub in Doolin, but on a tart. Again, Heeeeeeeeeaaaaven. I've attempted once to replicate it and found it lacking a certain flavor. Must revisit one of the two places to take better notes.

After our visit in Ballina ended Sunday morning, we headed slightly south east to Roscommon to visit the The Roscommon Lamb Festival. In the center of town there was a tent set up with crafting vendors inside. Various quilting, felting, woodworking and even a cobbler! Loved a pair of red leather shoes that now I'm kicking myself I did not purchase. I did however pick up a few rolls of quilters fabric at the Seams Sew Simple table with Lynn. Really looking forward to using these fabrics when I get back home. I imagine knitting needle cases though I have a sneaking suspension that I'll be getting into quilting squares. Side note here- I have always dreamed of making lovely, wonderful, bright colorful quilts and have indeed made some bright colorful lopsided ones for my family. But I have not YET mastered the quilting part of it. I can sew fabric together no problem. I'm just not very good at lining it up. Fun things to work on in the future.

I met up with Michelle of Michelle Made This who I chatted with on the phone prior to the event in order to get a good sense of the happenings of the weekend, she was so lovely to talk to and so helpful! Michelle makes fabric gifts like onies, cushions, embroidered greetings, cards, and much more. All in fresh fun colors. There where so many things I wanted and I was sew (i couldn't help myself) inspired! Through her, I met Frances Crowe, a tapestry weaver also in the area. Frances and I also had a lovely chat and she kindly gave me some of a fleece of hers that she got from a farmer I had just talked with. The fleece is Texel and I've since washed a small batch and its lovely! Really looking forward to dyeing this up and spinning it.

As I stood petting and rubbing this sheep's jowls, which I think it would have let me do forever, sweet girl, the farmer stood by watching me on and off and making conversation to others as they inquired about this unusual breed. I too was curious on their breed and just thought, oh it's some Irish breed I'm not familiar with. I mean there are a few hundred breeds out there. I lose track. I finally piped up and asked. I was answered with something I could not understand and then it was followed with, "are you interested in the fleeces and how much would you pay for a fleece?" I was taken a back slightly and tried to process both what was being said to me and what I needed to answer back. I guess I took too long and with the kind of blank look on my face, the farmers son appeared speaking more to the point (could you get more to the point than that I wondered?). Both men were very pleasant though and come to find out, the breed they were proudly showing off that day were, wait for it... I just love this; Zwartble. A primitive breed from Holland. They are raising them for breeding. They did have lovely pretty soft fleeces. We talked price of wool, exchanged mobile numbers and they promised to give me a ring when shearing time came but they. Had to wait for the weather to warm up a bit. Pretty pretty excited to take some of this fleece home and share it with my fiber ladies. 

Next to the Zwarbtles, there actually were two wallabies.... They look like baby kangaroos. SOOOO cute!!! But they looked so nervous and upset. Not that I've ever seen a wallabies before. But I couldn't help but wonder; WHAT THE BLAZES WHERE THEY DOING THERE?!??! Someone please tell me that you can spin the belly hair of wallabies. Please. Please tell me they are a fiber animal. Otherwise, I don't know what.

Thanks for enduring yet another long and rambling post of my favorite things. Sheep, cream and other goodies. 

Connemara

I'm not sure how this little gem escaped the publishing route but better late than never!

Last week Jubal and I drove north towards Galway and then around to the west into Connemara. It was gorgeous and delightful! We found a craft village and met a weaver where we bought little present for a dear loved one. I have been able to stop thinking about this weavers studio and shop. Her warps and wefts where of the same yarns. Soft, full of color and about an Aran weight and smaller. She had o think 3 looms set up and just then and there, my weaving beg set in. I've been mulling over on and off what to do with all this fantastic yarn I've collected over the years. I'm wanted to move on and only knit (for the most part) from my own hand spun and dyed yarns. But I rarely do because I'm trying to de-stash!! But what kind of business example is that?! So I've decided I'm going to start weaving with what I've got and only what I've got. Creating various unique tartans. Cloth, runners, shawls. On our travels so far, I've obtained much inspiration. I look forward to using my tiny metal table loom once again.

We drove onto Cliften which did not disappoint. Wonderful little village. Colorful, and dense with lovely shops, bakeries, and restaurants. That night we ate at an Indian place. It was SO GOOD.

Today; a visit to the Burren/ yesterday a visit to Loop Head

This afternoon, Jubal and I took a drive 20 minutes north east into the Burren. We were after a walk among the rocks. The Burren is vast but I wanted to return to a familiar spot I knew I well. We drove up to the aliwee cave area, parked and walked out to the rocks. Much like the rocks I've walked on at Land's End at the end of Bailey's Island in Maine, I'm so at home here in the Burren. I could have stayed out there for hours just looking at the rocks and whats in between ferns, moss, violets, and the occasional orchid- a delightful find! And looking out at the land in front. You can see a great divide in the land, the valley below and then the sea beyond going from Galway Bay. One of my most favorite spots of scenery, ever. Next to of course the crib stone bridge coming off of Orr's Island going into Bailey's Island.

On the way back, we stopped at the Burren Smoke house in Lisdoonvarna. Watched a 5 minute video on their process of smoking salmon. Have not been a salmon fan before, but I think I will be turning into one soon. Smoked salmon makes good gifts doesn't it?

Yesterday we drove south about an hour to the most westerly spot in Ireland, Loop Head. We knew we'd see a light house. We knew we'd see a cliff and sea stack. We also have become accustomed to this hollowing weather and have adapted by wearing 4 or so layers just to keep the wind out. However, we just weren't prepared for what we saw or felt. The grass was soft, long, and bouncy. The wind was keeping to herself. The sun was boasting. And the colors were just delighted! Yes, they really were. The greens of the grass, the aqua and blues of the water, the little purple flowers everywhere, and then the puffin like birds perching in the crevasse of the sea stack. All was so spectacular that we spent a long time just looking out. It accorded to me that if every human could be in the spot or one like it from time to time, could the world be at peace with each other just a little bit? For both of us, making that drive and then spending time just sitting and looking, after 3 weeks of being in Ireland, something clicked into this other gear of; we are here and we are here to look, see, explore, relax, and just be. It was also the first time it truly hit me that I was actually relieved that we are here for another 2 months. It's more than possible that all the planning for the last several months has exhausted us more then we thought possible. I am incredibly thankful to be here in Ireland again. But even more than that, I am incredibly thankful that I am here with Jubal. This time so far that we've had together keeps us in awe of how lucky we are to have found each other.

Kilfenora Céilí

The Kilfenora Céilí Festival was held this past weekend. I'd been looking forward to it for months since I found out this winter that it would be happening while we were here. Jubal and I decided on attending the Saturday night session at 10pm incase the open air afternoon one the next day was cancelled due to weather... But maybe the Irish don't believe in canceling anything because of weather? Certainly not a Céilí. We rested up all of Saturday afternoon, ate our dinner and then headed out. I had a feeling that I knew what the hall would look like as I had been to one before in the same town 14 years before. Sure enough, it was the same. The barn off of Vaughan's Pub. It was warm, lively and lit in a festive way. We enjoyed our Bailey's and pint as we looked on. Taking photos and videos of the festive dancers. Looking around, I swear I recognized a man I danced with 14 years ago.

Back in October of '99, I was pulled onto the dance floor in order to fill a spot in the set. The patient man shouted various directions to me and he led us in a series or turns, taps, twists and whirls. It was the highlight of my semester that fall. I went home that winter working on two small oil paintings for my senior thesis of dancing céilí figures. Later they would be accepted into my first juried art show in Wiscassett, Maine. I always loved that music and couldn't wait to try it again. This time, here in the present of 2013, I was much more skeptical of myself. Even when a small man maybe in his late 60's wearing a light blue cashmere sweater with a peak of red and white in his shirt color poking out, highlighting his cheeks, asked me to join in to fill a set. Ah no! I couldn't and mess up everyone's dancing. I would watch a little more and maybe next time I would. The whole time as Jubal and I watched on, we kept exchanging looks and telling each other we'd take lessons. We really wanted to give it a go but could see it looked very complicated.

As we enjoyed the last bits till we were almost too tired, we walked out of the barn happy thinking about those steps and the tunes. The same man with the cashmere sweater passed us outside under the lights of the pub and asked if we had had a good time. I turned and said we did and suddenly asked him if he knew of anyone who gave lessons. He stopped then and there and said, "you want to learn do ya? Well, this is what you start with," he turns me around so we're facing the same way and proceeds I tell me what foot I start with and what foot Jubal a starts with. It's a count of 1-2,1-2-3. He then shakes our hands and introduces himself as John Vaughan and points to the pub saying, "that's me. Just leave your name inside about lessons. Now, Rachel, if you do this every morning and every evening as your waiting on your tea to boil, you'll know it all. Oh and this step too." He then takes my arm and walks me around in a circle in count of 2 into a set of 8. There. That was it. I told him how 14 years ago I was here brought by the late Michael Greene and did he know of him? "Michael Greene of Ballyvaughan? O course I did. Very nice man. Very good friend of mine. Great man... You were a student at the college!" "I was, I was. Michael brought us here once and I swear I recognized a man inside just now I danced with. "I'm sure you danced me!" I told him how I once saw a man lift his leg greatly every time he stamped back down and how Michael was so annoyed and called him a "right jackass!" Over and over. Michael was such a warm friendly man, I remember being surprised at his disdain over this man's style of dance and laughing in bewilderment. He did look like a jack ass actually. The man told me then, that you never want to lift your leg. It's not the proper thing to do. You keep them low and subtle like.

He shook our hands again. Again squeezing our hands so hard, you couldn't feel your fingers for a few seconds and we promised to come back the following day. It was wonderful to be there again and that one interaction with John gave me a great spark. So far, talking to people here has been my favorite thing, next to eating cream of course:).

My kiss

Today I participated in National Plant A Kiss Day from Doolin, Ireland. While on a short trip to Connemara last week, we found a small beach outside of the town. We spent a while collecting various shells. Long skinny ones I've never seen and huge barnacles. I was pretty smitten with one shell in particular. It was a tiny round one so worn that it was pale and starting to show that glorious shiny under layer. I took some time last night to do a watercolor study of it. I've just now left it in the bathroom stall at McGann's Pub here in Doolin for someone else to enjoy. Maybe they'll leave it there. Maybe they'll take it home. Either way, I hope it brings some enjoyment to someone's day. The note at the bottom reads, "if you shall find this painting, please take it home. It's for you. oxox"

Plant a Kiss

Dingle

Jubal and I took a little side trip down to Dingle last week. Our first one outside of our little cottage in Doolin. Dingle was such a delight. The landscape, the building, the colors, I could go on and on. Here are a few of my favorite pics for that trip.